2012年4月17日星期二

2012 Admiral’s Cup portfolio watch

The first Admiral’s Cup watch was presented in 1960 and it was a bit of a ground-breaking model – do not let that elegant Carré case-shape fool you,

  This piece features a dial of contrasts, snailing on the outer, barleycorn – a firm favourite with Corum’s designers – on the inner, texturing which adds interest to the silver-grey dial. 

back then producing a square case watch with water resistant properties was quite an achievement.Last year we reported that the Admiral’s Cup watch had “grown up” with the release of the Seafender 47 Tourbillon GMT, the first in the series to offer an automatic tourbillon, the Legend Tourbillon Micro-Rotor is a little less sophisticated – but only on the inside,

Even the outsize “60″ at 12 o’clock has been sacrificed to allow full attention to the large-ish opening which reveals the 12mm tourbillon carriage with its openworked bridge, and naturally the eye is immediately drawn to it.

encased in the sleek and most refined Admiral’s Cup case-shape yet, and with a few admirable finishing touches you’d have to say it’s a fine addition to the collection.
 The model was re-awakened in 1980 forming an integral part of the marques’ new commercial link to yacht racing.

 It has evolved but the changes have been gradual, considered and respective to the collection’s personality – developments which have culminated in this year’s Admiral’s Cup Legend 46 Minute Repeater Acoustica the “first ever to strike four notes with four hammers working in pairs to produce harmonies”.

Inside is the automatic CO503 movement which produces 60 hours of power reserve from a 17mm micro rotor which bears the Corum Key and which features some fine Côtes de Genève engraving, viewable through an exhibition caseback. 

Unfortunately no images are available of this craftsmanship – however what we can show you where the collection started. 

Over the years the 12-sided case may have been softened and the colourful nautical pennant hour markers may have been reduced to barely there features but somehow the character remains, an Admiral’s Cup watch is still instantly recognisable.




2012 Extra-flat Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch

All are limited editions.Cartier present a new slender edition of their iconic dress watch the Cartier Ballon Bleu Extra-Flat. 

The Cartier Ballon Bleu is of course a bit of a classic – those substantial Roman numerals, the minute track which curves to accommodate that more than distinctive winding crown, it’s a watch that you would instantly recognise across a crowded room. 

Cartier will always find customers for the Ballon Bleu, it will always sell. 

 At 46mm it’s almost out-size, but it is so slim that the signature blue cabochon crown bulges over the case sides accentuating its presence to stunning effect.

That this one is flatter means it will rest easily on the wrist, that it is broader means that just a little bit more will peek out from beneath your tailored cuff, it’s a win/win on all accounts.

Three versions are available, 18 carat pink gold and white gold with silver guilloché dial and a platinum edition with an exquisite deep blue dial. 



2012 Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Cadran Love Tourbillon

These are effortlessly stylish pieces.  Perhaps you’ve noticed Cartier’s highly recognisable plain but prominent Roman numerals or the textured dial finishes and rail track trims – maybe it’s the splendid little cabochon-set crown which catches your eye. 

An inspired design – but not only that, just above 6 o’clock is a tricky little flying tourbillon, a marvellous mesmerising structure which appears to levitate above its bridges and into which a subtle letter “C” has been formed.

 All are features synonymous with Cartier watches, and all are present on the Rotonde de Cartier Cadran Lové Tourbillon, but this is no subtle dress watch, it is a boldly styled piece with a thoroughly modern twist.

The Cartier Calibre 9458 MC which powers the piece has been awarded the Geneva Seal, evidence of Cartier’s ascendency into the upper stratum of Haute Horlogerie.  The case has been crafted from 18 carat grey gold and measures a very manly 46.2mm across. 

Power reserve is up to 50 hours and the piece is water resistance to 30m.Most striking is the 3D dial.

 The open-worked Roman numerals on the left graduate to nil as the asymetric hours and minutes dial dominates the right side, as if that innocent little convex sapphire in the crown has distorted the whole thing with an almost lunar effect.

Cartier are a worldwide symbol of luxury and elegance, I have yet to meet anyone who does not find agreement with something in their portfolio. 




Cartier Grand Complication Skeleton Pocket Watch

 This is a tactile and considerable piece handcrafted from 18 carat gold and measuring 59mm across.

The manual winding Calibre 9436MC features not only a tourbillon, but also a mono pusher chronograph and a perpetual calendar.   revealing themselves taller and prouder than ever, blued steel hands (-what else?) are in complete entente with the crowning blue cabochon, the “C” bridge tourbillon – all combine to make this a striking and substantial piece.

The latter uses its marvellous mechanical memory to count the days, weeks and months while taking into account variations of the months and also leap years – only a quirk in the Gregorian calendar which rules that 2100 will be a Secular year causes it confusion, so adjustment will be required on March 1st of that year.

This is the Cartier Grand Complication Skeleton pocket watch which will be unveiled at SIHH 2012, a piece which in the true heritage of traditional watchmaking has its creation measured in the hours, days – weeks even, taken by the craftsmen chosen to produce it.

 As you”d imagine it is fairly weighty too but Cartier have thought of that and each piece comes with an equally grandiose obsidian and rock crystal stand.

This is a timepiece with a compendium of fine features, the instantly recognisable Cartier Roman Numerals have been painstakenly cutaway,


2012 New Chopard Classic Manufactum

At 6 o’clock a railtrack encloses the small seconds subdial.  Inside is the Chopard Calibre 01.04-C automatic movement with 60 hours of power reserve.

Inside is an in-house movement, developed and created in the brand’s Fleurier Manufacture but, unlike the highly regarded L.U.C. collection, it is not the calibre which seeds to pay tribute to the establisher of the Chopard brand,

but rather the styling of the piece which takes strong inspiration from the pocketwatches from which the young M.Chopard first gained his prized reputation.

 The Chopard Classic Manufactum will be available in rose gold, yellow gold and white gold editions, each polished and trim-bezeled case will measure 38mm across – on-trend for the smaller wrist/vintage styling so popular in recent times, and will be presented on a black alligator strap.

Pocketwatch styling generally means lots of empty dial space and clean-cut, understated styling – the Classic Manufactum piece has both in abundance.

The pure, pristine dial is not made from enamel but it gives an impression of purity and bareness. 

The slender numerals are positioned right at the edge of the dial and have a subtle sheen, the date window is proportioned and perfectly positioned and aligned with the 3 o’clock marker, the hands are eye-lash slim – all authentic features synonymous with traditional design. 

2012年4月12日星期四

Love is in the air at Hublot Big Bang in Red

The Hublot Big Bang in Red edition should surely tick that box.

In keeping with the company’s Art of Fusion ethos, it is produced in a white ceramic and red composite resin 38mm case on a red alligator and natural rubber strap it is a dazzling affair indeed with it’s 126 diamonds on the steel bezel in particular catching the eye.

The watch features a quartz movement whose functions are; hours, minutes and seconds.

Featured on the Hublot site under ‘Novelties’, the Big Bang in Red further underlines the company’s fun, funky  – and no doubt opportunistic – approach to it’s place among watchmakers with it’s eye on the more youthful, sporty and funloving client.

2012 Hublot Big Bang First Images Depeche Mode

It’s a fantastic experience which once again places the Basildon boys live as one of the most amazing and infectious concert bands in the world – everyone there knows every word of every song,

 and it’s incredible when they launch into a tune you think no-one else has ever heard except yourself and you look around and everyone in sight is either singing it aloud, or lip-syncing .Hublot have teamed up with one of the greatest rock bands of all time. Depeche Mode.

Greatest ‘rock’ bands off all time I hear you wonder? Yes. Have you caught them live? If you have, you’ll know what I mean.

All twelve Hublot Big Bang Chronographs come in a black ceramic case on a croco leather strap with hand-stitching matching exactly the colour theme of the album being represented.

I’m pleased to post some of the first images of each of the twelve Depeche Mode Big Bang watches below. Click on them to expand, then click again to supersize!

In all, Depeche Mode have released 12 albums, the latest of which, Sounds of the Universe is touring Europe at the minute. If you can get to see them, go.

2012年4月4日星期三

Momentum Announces the Vortech GMT watch

Here is an announcement we can really get excited about. Canada’s Momentum Watches has announced a very cool looking titanium aviator that features both GMT and alarm complications.

We love the Vortech GMT’s simple aviator style, the subdued case design, and the additional contrast provided by the red and yellow hands for the Alarm and GMT settings, respectively.

This new model is called the Vortech GMT and, given its feature set, should make for a very practical and easy-to-wear watch.

 Even among other quartz competition, that is a strong feature set, clean styling and a wearable size, all for under $300! We are going to do the right thing and kindly beg to get one in for review, because after all, if you’re going to go quartz, it should have an alarm (and a GMT).

This new model will be available soon and sports a 44mm titanium case with a lug to lug distance of 53mm and is powered by a Swiss ISA8176/1990 quartz movement.

Momentum is claiming the alarm is quite loud and that pricing will start at a very reasonable $285 with a yet-to-be-priced option for a sapphire crystal (the base model uses mineral glass).


Benarus 49 mm unidirectional bezel watch

The Megalodon, perhaps unsurprisingly, is unlike any other watch I’ve ever worn. With the Megalodon 4 on wrist or simply in my hands, I am unable to see anything other than its almost ridiculous size.

49mm wide at the bezel and nearly 20 mm thick, it is a large watch by any comparison and you had better prefer rolling up your sleeves as the Megalodon 4 will not fit under any standard cuff.

 That said, if you close your eyes or simply go on with your day, you’ll soon forget just how large the Megalodon is as its “visual weight” is not at all a strong indication of how it wears once strapped to your wrist.

The Megalodon 4’s 55mm lug to lug length is actually rather short for its 47mm frame. For comparison, consider the 42mm Helson Shark Diver has a 51.5 mm lug to lug measurement. The lightness and comfort of the Megalodon is surprising given its size and it should suit any wrist providing the owner prefers a big watch or simply has a very large wrist.

While the Megalodon has been available in many different variations of case materials/finishing, bezel design and dial color, it has always shown its signature over-sized hands and dial markers which are designed to be reminiscent of the teeth from the prehistoric shark, the Megalodon. I think the shape is both distinctive and very successful in terms of being practical (triangular shapes work well for markers and these are very large so they can handle a lot of luminous paint), aesthetically interesting and rather unique.
47 x 19.5 mm titanium case
49 mm unidirectional bezel
55 mm lug to lug
239g fully loaded (209g as reviewed)
ETA 2824-2 Automatic movement
4mm thick double domed sapphire crystal
Fully lumed bezel scale
Automatic helium escape valve
2500m (8200 ft) Water resistant
Titanium bracelet with solid end links and screwed construction
Fitted rubber strap
Price of $1,100 USD